‘This, Sir, Is Also Qatar. Let Me Show You.’

Published by
Sports Illustrated

By Greg Bishop Traversing around Qatar reveals many sides of the host nation, where there’s an ongoing collision between what it is and what it is becoming. SEALINE BEACH, QATAR — I’m sitting on top of a camel. It’s worth repeating. I’m sitting … on top of … a camel. It sounds absurd, and yet, somehow, strangely, against all common sense and better judgment, it’s true. This camel’s hair is tan; its toenails, white with dark spots; its mask, knitted, mostly blue, with yellow-and-red trim. There’s a harness to grasp for balance and a feed bag resting atop the hump. I’m told by the friendly tour …

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